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여기에서 이 주제에 대한 비디오를 시청하십시오. 주의 깊게 살펴보고 읽고 있는 내용에 대한 피드백을 제공하세요!

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The Megasquirt series of ECU allow you to have full stand-alone fuel and ignition management (and more) for any car. In this episode we cover what you can control and startup and idle process. Knowing the process helps you tune without going in circles! We use Tuner Studio to configure and tune the MS3X.
We’ll cover:
Priming
Cranking
After Start Enrichment (ASE)
Warm up Enrichment (WUE)
Idle air control (IAC valves)
Closed loop idle vs Open loop.
OGPedxing is all about DIY, gadgets, and tools.

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Introduction to the MegaSquirt ® EFI Controller – MegaManual

The MegaSquirt® family of EFI controllers (including MS-I™, MS-II™, MicroSquirt®, and the MS-II Sequencer™) is a series of experimental Do-It-Yourself …

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MegaSquirt ’77 VW Bus Installation

Info regarding MegaSquirt can be found at: http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html. Engine: This is a stock 2 liter type IV VW aircooled engine – set up for …

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Megasquirt 02 Fiat 124 Spider @ [BaSiLiSk.ChAoSnEt.OrG]

Megasquirt. The Fuel Injection computer I have assembled can be found here: http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html. May 11th 2002: 02assembly1.

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Anyone ever heard of Mega Squirt EFI? – PeachParts.com

A good friend of mine showed me this link: http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html I was wondering if anyone has ever heard of this, …

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Anyone ever hear of the megasquirt DIY DFI? – Rennlist

924/931/944/951/968 Forum – Anyone ever hear of the megasquirt DIY DFI? … computer on their cars: http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html .

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AfterMarket ECU MegaSquirt Ford Victoria Club

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Mega Squirt standalone fule management – Ford Focus Forum

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Megasquirt – Dodge SRT Forum

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주제와 관련된 더 많은 사진을 참조하십시오 Tuning the Megasquirt (Pt. 1) – Intro. 댓글에서 더 많은 관련 이미지를 보거나 필요한 경우 더 많은 관련 기사를 볼 수 있습니다.

Tuning the Megasquirt (Pt. 1) - Intro
Tuning the Megasquirt (Pt. 1) – Intro

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Introduction to MegaSquirt

Search the manual: only search the MegaManual, uncheck to search the entire web.

The MegaSquirt® family of EFI controllers (including MS-I™, MS-II™, MicroSquirt®, and the MS-II Sequencer™) is a series of experimental Do-It-Yourself universal programmable electronic fuel injection controllers for spark ignition, liquid fuelled internal combustion engines. Experimental means that YOU will be responsible for sorting out some details of your fuel injection that are specific to your application and equipment. In order to assemble, test, and install and safely use MegaSquirt® EFI Controller, you must read, understand and follow this manual.

MegaSquirt® EFI controllers are not for sale or use on pollution controlled vehicles. Check the laws in your jurisdiction to determine if using a MegaSquirt® EFI controller is legal for your application.

In general, there is a lot of assistance available on the MegaSquirt® EFI controller Forums Web site, in this manual, and on the MegaSquirt® EFI controller FAQ, but ultimately YOU are responsible for the safe and reliable construction and operation of your electronic fuel injection system and its components, including the MegaSquirt® controller. Before doing anything else, be sure to read and understand all applicable safety precautions for your vehicle, tools, and equipment.

The MegaSquirt® family EFI controllers are designed by Bruce Bowling and Al Grippo. In order to assemble, test, and install and safely use MegaSquirt® EFI Controller, you must read, understand and follow this manual.

MegaSquirt® Features

The MegaSquirt-I™ EFI Controller uses an 8 MHz Motorola 68HC908 processor and a Motorola MPX4250AP MAP sensor to provide electronic fuel control. MegaSquirt-I™ is based on the Motorola MC68HC908GP32 Flash-based microcontroller operating at an internal bus speed of 8 MegaHertz (this is bus speed – remember that most microprocessors specify their parts at external crystal speed, which is then divided down by four to yield internal bus speed). MegaSquirt-II™ EFI controller upgrade uses a 24 MegaHertz HC9S12C32 processor.

Many OEM and popular aftermarket EFI systems use older processor technology (like the MC68HC11 or Z80) that operates at 1 or 2 MHz internal bus speed. The MegaSquirt® EFI Controller has a faster clock speed, coupled with direct assembly language programming, which give the MegaSquirt® EFI Controller its power.

MegaSquirt-II™ Controller:

(MC9S12C64) MegaSquirt-I™ Controller:

(68HC908)

All of the embedded microprocessor code executed by MegaSquirt-I has been hand-written directly in assembler, not compiled from a high-level language, such as C. Working directly in assembler produces the most efficient and fastest-executing code possible. The result is that the MegaSquirt® EFI Controller can provide real-time fuel calculations up to 16000 RPM! As well, the assembly code for the MegaSquirt® EFI Controller is available on the MegaSquirt® EFI Controller web site, for anyone who wishes to view or customize it. A freeware compiler is available at that site too, so there are no extras to buy.

MegaSquirt-II™ code is written in C, and the freeware GCC compiler is available for you to write your own code or modifications. MegaSquirt-II™ adds ignition capabilities (including missing tooth crank wheel support), as well as much higher fuel pulse width resolution, stepper motor IAC control, and a number of other features you can read about in this link.

Additionally, the on-chip Flash memory makes either MS-I™ or MS-II™ EFI controllers use processors that are a true single-chip set-up, reducing cost and extending reliability. Also, using Flash technology allows the instant re-programming of constants, enrichments, etc. while the vehicle is running. The processor can even be re-loaded with other control code using a simple programming interface and no additional hardware. The flash can be re-written at least 10,000 times, and it has a retention duration of 20 years.

Commonly available (from General Motors) coolant and air temperature sensors are used as default sensors, though you can substitute others. The MegaSquirt® EFI Controller provides either speed-density or alpha-N fuel control. The MegaSquirt® EFI Controller uses dedicated tuining software for firmware reprogramming, engine monitoring, and tuning. Even without a computer connected, the three LEDs on the MegaSquirt® EFI Controller enclosure allow you to monitor injection pulse [commanded], warm-up enrichment, and acceleration enrichment at any time.

The MegaSquirt® EFI Controller microprocessor code is available, and you are encouraged to make and share modifications (for use on B&G boards) to suit your installation. Several modified versions have been developed for particular applications/features already. Other people have developed and shared helpful freeware for MegaSquirt® EFI Controller, including:

TunerStudioMS – for tuning and datalogging the MegaSquirt ® EFI Controller with a laptop computer, (Phil Tobin)

EFI Controller with a laptop computer, (Phil Tobin) MegaTune – for tuning and datalogging the MegaSquirt ® EFI Controller with a laptop computer running Windows 9x/ME/XP, (Eric Fahlgren)

– for tuning and datalogging the MegaSquirt EFI Controller with a laptop computer running Windows 9x/ME/XP, (Eric Fahlgren) EasyTherm – to simplify the substitution of non-standard temperature sensors and to upload software revisions ( MegaSquirt-I only, MS-II™ can be recalibrated in MegaTune ). (Roger Enns)

– to simplify the substitution of non-standard temperature sensors and to upload software revisions ( ). (Roger Enns) MS Palm – to tune and datalog with a Palm (Roger Enns)

In addition, ancillary hardware has been developed, or is being developed, for your MegaSquirt. These include:

MegaStimulator – to test your completed MegaSquirt ® EFI controller unit prior to installing it. (Jeff Clarke)

EFI controller unit prior to installing it. (Jeff Clarke) Relay board – to simplify wiring of the MegaSquirt. (Bowling and Grippo)

MegaView – to provide a dedicated display for the MegaSquirt – available NOW!. (Bowling and Grippo)

MegaSquirt-II™, which has ignition control, available now (hardware). (Bowling and Grippo)

As well, Jim Willette has developed the Willette programmer – for programming blank or corrupted MegaSquirt-I™ processors, and a MegaProgrammer(.ZIP file) is also available for the same purpose.

The best feature of some MegaSquirt® controllers is that you build them yourself! Since you assemble the controller, and all information about the design is available to you, you are able to troubleshoot the board if a problem arises, and, in almost all cases, repair the unit yourself. The system as it exists today is a complete “turn-key” solution. You solder it together, install in the vehicle or boat, tune, and use it. The complete source code is available for those who want to understand or even modify the control algorithms.

The Development of MegaSquirt® EFI Controllers

The MegaSquirt® family of EFI controllers came about because of the apparent need for an inexpensive, “turn-key” fuel injection controller by many individuals. Bruce and Al had design and offered the EFI332 system for Do-It-Yourself EFI enthusiasts. The hope was that theEFI332 project would result in a system that could ultimately be used for all applications, and this was one of the main reasons for offering their 4-layer MC86332 board as the EFI332 platform in 2000.

However, relatively few EFI332 systems had been built and installed on vehicles at first. We feel that one of the main reasons for the small number of operational systems was due to the complexity of the current EFI332 system. One has to be both a hardware and software expert, install and learn a bunch of software development tools, write embedded code, and become an expert in engine control algorithms. The EFI332 system is very powerful and flexible, but requires a tremendous learning curve, a wide range of skills, and many hours to install successfully. Bruce and Al thought that there is another group of people out there who want an EFI system in a more complete and turnkey state, and somewhat simpler. This was the idea behind the MegaSquirt® EFI controller.

The philosophy for the MegaSquirt® EFI controller system is simple: provide a controller for fuel injectors which can be adapted to any application, without having to write embedded code or understand the details of engine controls. In addition, the plan has been to publish the schematics, software, algorithms, etc. to everyone to enhance the MegaSquirt® EFI controller’s potential as an educational project. This is not a commercial unit, but an experimental unit directed at Do-It-Yourself applications for people who want to learn about electronic fuel injection control systems.

An early version of the MegaSquirt-I™ EFI Controller was described in Circuit Cellar magazine in an article titled “Building a Fuel-Injection ECU” by Bruce and Al in January 2002.

The MegaSquirt-I™ EFI Controller uses a flash-based Motorola microprocessor (MC68HC908GP32) for the calculation of fuel pulse width and injector control. Additionally, host software (Windows-based) was developed which allows the run-time adjustment of control parameters.

In 2005, MegaSquirt-II, a replacement daughtercard for the MegaSquirt-I™ EFI Controller’s 68HC908 processor became available from Bowling and Grippo. This daughtercard included a much faster processor and increased memory, and also included control options for stepper style IAC controllers and ignition systems. All but the earliest version of MegaSquirt-II™ are CAN (controller area network) enabled, allowing them to ‘talk’ to add-on modules such as sequential injections drivers and transmission controllers.

The MegaSquirt® EFI controller uses standard sensors (coolant temp., intake manifold air temp., throttle position, oxygen, and trigger from existing ignition system) to perform batch fuel injector (two banks) pulse width control. Not having ignition control makes this an ideal unit for replacing a carburetor – you can keep your existing ignition.

What you NEED to Install a MegaSquirt® EFI Controller®

The MegaSquirt® EFI controller is a universal electronic fuel injection controller that can be made to work on any spark ignition internal combustion engine, with the right external parts. However, the success of your installation depends on YOU. In order to make the MegaSquirt® controller work on YOUR car, boat, chainsaw, or whatever, you will need:

A v1.01/v2.2/V3.00/v3.57 MegaSquirt® Printed Circuit Board (PCB), processor (MS-I or MS-II), and a component kit and case (ex. for v3.00 PCB) from a vendor,

Tools and ability to assemble and test an electronic printed circuit board (if you will build the board yourself) ,

, Additional parts to suit your installation, including:

Coolant and air temperature sensors,

Oxygen sensor and bung is highly recommended (either narrow-band or wide-band),

Wiring and various connectors for the sensors, injectors, etc.,

Injectors and bungs/manifold,

Throttle body,

High pressure fuel pump and supply/return lines, and a

Fuel pressure regulator,

Tools and ability to cut the aluminum case end-plates for connectors and LEDs (if you will build the board yourself) ,

, Knowledge and skills to install all of the necessary sensors and wiring,

Knowledge and experience to be able install or adapt a complete high-pressure fuel system in your vehicle for MegaSquirt ® EFI Controller,

EFI Controller, Windows 95 (or better) laptop computer with a serial port to configure and tune your MegaSquirt ® EFI Controller, and

to configure and tune your MegaSquirt EFI Controller, and Enough mechanical aptitude to know what to do to make the engine run right.

Installing the MegaSquirt® controller in a vehicle that already has EFI means you will need to consider how you will run the ignition and any other devices the OEM ECU controls [such as the transmission, speedometer and other gauges, and emissions devices], how you will interface the MegaSquirt® EFI controller to your existing wiring harness, and whether you can reuse your existing sensors.

Do YOU have enough knowledge, skills, money, and energy to complete your installation? The MegaSquirt® EFI controller is the fuel injection controller only, and YOU will have to figure out everything else you need for your vehicle. This manual covers much of the specific information you need for the MegaSquirt® controller, and general guidelines for things like fuel systems, etc.

A good book on OEM and aftermarket electronic fuel injection systems is Fuel Injection: Installation, Performance Tuning, Modifications by Jeff Hartman (1993). It is published by Motorbooks International [ISBN 0-87938-743-2]. Other references can be found here.

You will not be dealing with your MegaSquirt alone, however. Thousands of MegaSquirt® kits have shipped. There is a huge amount of collective experience and knowledge related to the assembly and installation of the MegaSquirt® EFI controller in various vehicles available on the MegaSquirt® Forums web site.

What You Do NOT Need

Programming skills . The assembly language software is already written and loaded, and the tuning interface is through a straightforward Windows application. You can, of course, conceive, write and load you own code if you wish.

. The assembly language software is already written and loaded, and the tuning interface is through a straightforward Windows application. You can, of course, conceive, write and load you own code if you wish. PROM burner to make tuning changes. A serial port connection allows adjustment of all the tuning parameters. Software updates are up-loadable through the serial connection as well.

to make tuning changes. A serial port connection allows adjustment of all the tuning parameters. Software updates are up-loadable through the serial connection as well. Advanced electronic skills . If you can solder and follow directions, or are willing to learn, you should be able to successfully assemble a MegaSquirt ® EFI controller. You do not need to know what each and every component does, as there is a comprehensive assembly guide to walk you through the entire assembly and testing process.

. If you can solder and follow directions, or are willing to learn, you should be able to successfully assemble a MegaSquirt EFI controller. You do not need to know what each and every component does, as there is a comprehensive assembly guide to walk you through the entire assembly and testing process. Latest laptop computer. In fact, newer computer often do not have the serial port that is needed to communicate with the MegaSquirt® EFI controller (instead they have USB ports). USB/Serial adapters can be used, but an older laptop is very cheap, and often a better solution. You may want a faster computer for processing data logs with MSTweak3000, but these can be done separately on a faster desktop machine.

Purchasing a MegaSquirt® EFI Controller

You can buy complete kits (which include everything – the PCB, programmed processor, all required electronic parts, along with the case, etc.) from The MegaSquirt® EFI controller distributors that accept various forms of payment. These distributors have been essential to growth and support within the MegaSquirt community. Be SURE to check the Products and Services forum on www.msefi.com for information on the reputation and service of particular distributors before ordering. In general, you should be very cautious of distributors not listed below.

MegaSquirt® EFI controllers are not for sale or use on pollution controlled vehicles. Check the laws in your jurisdiction to determine if using a MegaSquirt® EFI controller is legal for your application.

DIYAutoTune

Offers the full line of Bowling and Grippo’s MegaSquirt® Products as kits or fully assembled and ready for use. All kits are fully labeled, including everything you’ll need to build your own unit. Additionally DIYAutoTune.com carries wideband o2 systems and other tuning products that integrate nicely with your MegaSquirt® Engine Management System. Same day shipping on in-stock orders received by 2pm EST. www.diyautotune.com

([email protected]) ExtraEFI.co.uk

is Philip Ringwood’s site (one of the authors of the MSnS-Extra code) dedicated to UK and European based sales of fully assembled and tested MegaSquirt® ECU’s running the MSnS_Extra code. The ECU’s include a wiring harness, RS232 communication cable and the relevant software / drawings, etc. www.ExtraEFI.co.uk

( [email protected] ) EFI Source

is dedicated to supplying the highest quality EFI products to the performance minded automotive community. Our goal is to make programmable EFI systems affordable to everyone without sacrificing quality or functionality. We will constantly be adding new products in order to meet this goal. www.efisource.com

( [email protected] ) KPTuned

offers a line of fully assembled, developed and integrated MegaSquirt® engine management packages for VW, Audi and other import vehicles. Each KPTuned MegaSquirt® ECU is specifically modified for the intended installation with all additional circuits installed, a custom wiring diagram provided, pre-configured software and vehicle start-up support available. Wiring, installation and tuning services are also available on site upon request. KPTuned.com

( [email protected] ) MSBR

A MSBR © a casa da MegaSquirt no Brasil. Seja bem vindo e tenha acesso ao que existe de melhor no mundo a presos nacionais. Venha nos conhecer! forum.MSBR.com.br

( [email protected] ) PSM Competicion

Distribuidor Oficial Megasquirt en Argentina, Buenos Aires. PCB´s Originales B&G, los únicos con soporte técnico post venta y amplia experiencia en el rubro. Nuestras Megasquirts originales salen 100% testiadas y con garantia local, tambien ofrecemos el servicio de instalación , reparación y puesta a punto de ecus programables megasquirt y otras. Somos un punto de venta para otros productos relacionados con la competición como bujería, volantes de acero, depósitos de venteo, intercoolers, watercoolers, inyectores, widebands, mangueras siliconadas entre otras. www.psm-competicion.com.ar

([email protected] ) Pirata Motor

Distribuidor oficial de MegaSquirt España, asesoramos y ayudamos de forma personalizada en la instalación, configuración y ajuste de tu proyecto, para ello disponemos del KIT sin montar o proporcionamos la ECU totalmente montada y preparada para el arranque. Disponemos de las herramientas necesarias para el ajuste y de todo lo necesario para realizar tu instalación, ademas de componentes adicionales. www.piratamotor.com

([email protected] ) MegaSquirtArgentina (B2Tech)

Desde Buenos Aires, con representantes en todo el pais, somos los primeros distribuidores de Megasquirt para Argentina. Contamos con la mayor experiencia en el rubro ofreciendo la gama completa de productos originales de Bowling & Grippo, en unidades armadas o kits para ensamblar. Tambien distribuimos sistemas wideband en forma oficial, servicio de reparacion de ecus, instalacion y puesta a punto. www.MegaSquirtArgentina.com

([email protected] ) MEGASQUIRT NZ

A dedicated tuning company specialising in the sales, installation and dynotuning of the MegaSquirt® System on all engines and types of vehicles We offer custom supercharger, turbocharger installations, fuel injectors, fuel pumps. and a range of Eaton M90 and M122 Superchargers You can rest assured your vehicle is in professional hands. www.megasquirtnz.co.nz

([email protected] ) EFi4Tuning.ca

Distributeur Canadien des produits Megasquirt. Nos ECU assemblés sont munis de connecteurs commerciaux robustes permettant de supporter des courants plus élevés avec une plus grande robustesse. Our modified ECU can be adapted to your needs. We repair, modified and uprgade ECUs. We design extra boards or any needed circuit boards for applications. www.EFi4Tuning.ca

([email protected] ) FenixEcu

FenixEcu est distributeur officiel de la gamme Megasquirt en France depuis 2008. FenixEcu vous accompagne de la définition du produit adapté à votre projet jusqu’à la mise en route de votre moteur.

Reconnu par la profession pour le niveau d’excellence et la qualité de ses produits, FenixEcu vous propose tous les outils nécessaires pour l’automobile d’aujourd’hui et de demain. www.megasquirt.fr

([email protected]) MegaSquirt Mexico

De Chihuahua para México, somos distribuidores de productos megasquirt en toda la Republica Mexicana, proporcionamos un excelente servicio y asesoria en cada venta que realizamos, con nosotros adquieres confianza y seguridad en tu compra, contamos con un punto de venta adicional de kits de turbocargadores (intercoolers, blow off, wastegate, manifolds etc), widebands y otros productos. MegaSquirt Mexico on Facebook

([email protected] )

Note that there are also a number of vendors selling MegaSquirt® in other venues, such as eBay. These vendors do not all have the same level of build quality, customer service, or commitment to the MegaSquirt® community as the distributors listed above. If you are not sure about a vendor, ask for customer feedback on www.msefi.com, and check how active a vendor is on those forums as an indication of their level of support.

Note that there are also a number of vendors selling MegaSquirt® EFI controllers in other venues, such as eBay. These vendors do not all have the same level of build quality, customer service, or commitment to the MegaSquirt® EFI controller community as the distributors listed above. If you are not sure about a vendor, ask for customer feedback on www.msefi.com, and check how active a vendor is on those forums as an indication of their level of support.

There is a listing of a number of additional MegaSquirt® EFI controller sellers on the forums at: www.msefi.com

Did I Buy a Counterfeit MS/MS2 Board? While not a new problem, reports of counterfeit MS/ MS2 boards have become increasingly frequent over the last year (2009), as have reports of poor design, workmanship, and above all, poor or non-existent tech support for these boards. And often they are not even cheaper than legitimate boards. If you are stuck with one of these boards, it may work for a while, it may fail intermittently, or permanently. It may never work. We cannot help you with troubleshooting these boards, since we do not know how they are designed or built. While we welcome innovation, there has to be some order to it or there is no longer a community. We encourage people to innovate new add-ons, new software, new applications for special purpose engines, etc. For this reason we have prototype areas and module versions of our boards, and we have GPIO boards that can handle all sorts of exotic and niche applications. And there is a wealth of very basic documentation on how anyone willing to learn can do this. People are free to innovate and sell these all they want. But that requires innovation and hard work – apparently it is easier to steal an existing design. People have asked us how they can tell if a board is counterfeit. There are three basic ways: Check the authorized dealers and resellers links above before you buy. These vendors are known to provide genuine B&G boards and provide good to excellent customer service. Because the list may not always be up to date, and because resellers may be very small entities, they may be legitimate, but not on the list. If they aren’t, ask them which dealer they buy their raw boards from, then verify with the dealer. A legitimate vendor won’t have a problem with this, in fact, it is a selling point to them. If you have already purchased a board, there are several ways you can check if the board is legitimate or not. This is particularly easy before assembly, but can also be done on fully assembled boards. For example, a red colored main board has never been produced by Bowling and Grippo. Other counterfeits are different in more subtle ways. If you are unsure, ask on the forums at www.msefi.com for more details. We will provide detailed instructions here shortly. If your board is a counterfeit, ask the seller to replace it with a legitimate B&G version, or ask them to give you all of your money back. Note that V3 boards are less likely to be counterfeited than V2.2 boards (because they are more complex due to the many added features). However, counterfeits have been attempted of most of the B&G boards, unfortunately. It is strongly suggested that you purchase the following: A complete MegaSquirt® EFI controller kit,

A complete MegaStim kit.

You will have to decide if you want a MegaSquirt-I™ controller or a MegaSquirt-II. There’s lots more information to help you make that choice here: MegaSquirt-I™ controller ( fuel only ):

): MegaSquirt-II® controller (fuel, spark, and stepper IAC): The V3 main board is the latest version, and in most cases this is what you should use. It has a number of features that make upgrades and installations easier. See this link for more information about the V3 main board. An optional unit that eases installation (especially on previously carbureted engines) is the relay board. Bruce and Al do not support individuals who produce or sell their own version of the PCB. Bruce and Al cannot assure the quality control for any such boards, and every issue become prefaced with “what PCB are you using…” Having a sole source for the PCB is important because it is very time consuming to troubleshoot problems arising from other PCB designs or production methods. With the current system, the quality of the boards is assured and the people on the MegaSquirt Forums can answer questions relating to them. Users are not allowed to produce their own version of the PCB without express written permission from Bruce Bowling and Al Grippo. In general, such permission is granted only for one or two personal boards which will note be distributed in any form. Also note that such boards are NOT supported in any form on the MegaSquirt® EFI controller forums. About this Manual This manual has been produced for people new to the MegaSquirt® EFI controller to assist them to assemble, install and tune the MegaSquirt® EFI controller from the B&G partial kit and the specified Digi-Key parts. Unless noted otherwise, it is always assumed that: The reader is assembling and installing a MegaSquirt ® version 2.2 or version 3 main board, 68HC908 processor with ‘standard’ version 3.00 embedded software OR MegaSquirt-II™ daughtercard, and tuning software called TunerStudioMS,

version 2.2 or version 3 main board, 68HC908 processor with ‘standard’ version 3.00 embedded software OR MegaSquirt-II™ daughtercard, and tuning software called TunerStudioMS, The installation is intended to be the primary fuel controller,

The MegaSquirt ® EFI controller will be installed on a gasoline-fueled spark ignition engine vehicle,

EFI controller will be installed on a gasoline-fueled spark ignition engine vehicle, The engine, if supercharged, will see less than ~21 psi of boost (the limit of the standard MAP sensor),

Prices are in U.S. dollars, and

Part numbers are applicable to North American automobiles and parts suppliers. However, many MegaSquirt® EFI controllers have been installed on vehicles that do not conform to the above criteria. Many MegaSquirt® EFI controllers have been built in countries other than the U.S., and they have been installed on rotary engines as well. If your engine does not conform to the above list, read this manual first, and then check the MegaSquirt® EFI controller forums for information specific to other configurations and locations. This manual follows a sequence of tasks you need to follow to get MegaSquirt® working for you. However, it will not tell you absolutely everything you must do. This is not a step-by-step guide to everything you need to accomplish to install your MegaSquirt® (apart from the assembly guide for the unit itself). You will have to think some things through for yourself. This manual assumes you have some basic automotive, computer, and electronics background, or are willing to find, understand, and apply this information yourself. If you do not have such knowledge, you MUST consult a qualified mechanic. Otherwise you might be unlikely to successfully assemble, test, install, and tune the MegaSquirt® EFI controller. It is an experimental fuel injection unit, after all. One of the reasons the MegaSquirt® EFI controller came about was because Bruce and Al wanted to increase understanding of fuel control requirements for as many people as possible. In order to help the process of gathering knowledge, you need to understand your system thoroughly; something a step-by-step guide for everything is not conducive to. If you require a ‘turn key’ EFI solution, one of the commercial controllers might suit your needs better. A great many advanced topics have been left out of this manual, including: the hi-resolution code, the many useful variations of the standard code and hardware, running propane injection, etc. For information on these and other topics, see the FAQ and the msefi forums. Please report any errors, omissions, or clarifications to the MegaSquirt® EFI controller Forums, so everyone will be notified.

Megasquirt 02 Fiat 124 Spider @ [BaSiLiSk.ChAoSnEt.OrG]

The Fuel Injection computer I have assembled can be found here: http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html

I have started to build the Megasquirt FI computer. I have all the parts necessary to assemble Megasquirt hopefully it will come together without any problems. See the book to the left? Can you guess what kind of car Megasquirt will go into? 1979 Fiat Spider 2000! Here are some pictures of the Megasquirt assembly.

Its fully assembled now. I have also ordered a USB to Serial adapter (keyspan.com) so I can hook the unit up to my Apple iBook. Hopefully it gets here soon. Next step is to test this thing out. Behold Megasquirt! I have taken time to get my windows machine running again, (Its hard without a floppy drive or bootable CD!). This way I can test the unit. I am using an extra computer power supply to provide the necessary 12 volts to power Megasquirt. If anyone was wondering, to turn on an ATX power supply without motherboard you must jumper pins 6 and 7. It should be a green wire and a black one. Megasquirt is pretty low power so I really doubt there will be any current supply issues. To test it fully I am going to need a number of potentiometers and something to simulate a coil signal. See the picture!

I have been working on the car that this unit will be going into. I recently rebuilt the engine and I am now fitting it back into the car. You can read about that on the cars section of this site, if I get around to it To test Megasquirt I took some parts from an old DJ mixer Using these parts and a little clock circuit I was able to simulate all the necessary sensors. Everything works! As can be seen in the photos I tried a car battery charger as a power supply just to see if it would make any difference. The voltage from the charger is not stable, DUH, probably to help condition the battery. The next step is to get it into the car. Here are some pictures from the testing.

The car that this unit will be put into is now running using a carburetor. I will break the motor using this then switch to the F. I. The break-in period is very important so it could be detrimental to run the wrong fuel mixture. I have pictures but they were taken with a conventional camera and will have to be scanned.

I have bought the air and water temperature sensors. I decided to use the GM sensors to avoid having to upload new temperature lookup tables into Megasquirt. However the GM sensors are a different thread point than the Fiat sensor bungs. A machine shop solved this for 10 bucks. If you have your own tap set it would be even easier! You can see the Water temperature sensor mounted (left). I will put the air temperature sensor into the air filter, whenever I get it.

Today was spent finalizing the install of Megasquirt. I decided to run a power line directly from the battery to a solenoid triggered by the ignition switch to power Megasquirt. With the battery being in the trunk this gave me a chance to run a second battery cable that I took out of a fuel injected version of the car. This way I can use the original battery cable as an engine ground line which should help remedy some ground problems. The new FI battery cable has an extra brown lead I can use to power Megasquirt. This brown wire was originally power for the Bosch FI system. Mounting the fuel pump was an exercise, I am not sure of the stock Fiat install location. I tried to place it in a good location. From what I know its best to have the pump level with or below or the base of the fuel tank. This way siphon action will pull fuel from the tank to the pump, thereby taking strain off the pump. A second mounting consideration was to place it somewhere safe, if I do something stupid like run over a bush it will not rip the pump out from under the car and shoot gasoline everywhere. I still have not mounted the fuel filter. I do not want it under the car. At this point I will mount it inside the engine compartment, there could be a reason not to… besides the fact that the Fiat FI filter is huge On to the fuel lines. There are two fuel lines in my Fiat, one big one small. The larger one is to supply fuel from the tank to the carburetor, the smaller one is to run excess fuel from the carburetor back to the tank. Since fuel injection systems move allot more fuel around the lines to and from the engine have to be larger. To solve this I kept the larger stock carbureted Fiat fuel line as the return and I installed a used a fuel line from a ~1990 Del Sol for fuel delivery. This line had a nice rust proof coating and was more than long enough to reach from the pump to the engine. This gave me the chance to design out a number of factory breaks in the fuel line. I prefer one long metal line so there is less flexible hose to worry about degrading. The last segment of the fuel line is from the fuel tank to the pump. This line must be quite large, I could not find a big enough diameter metal line so I used flexible tubing. Its all proper fuel line so it will hold up for a number of years. I also installed new bits of fuel line at the injectors as the original tubing from 1982 was not in good shape. The original line used clips to hold it in place, also used metric fuel line. I did not save the clips as 5/16th line could not be used with them. Instead I just used hose clamps. Here is a close up of one mounted injector. I am using the original Fiat FI fuel rail but I am not going to hook up the vacuum lead to the rising rate fuel pressure regulator. This way I will have a higher pressure at all times. Due to the small size of the injectors I will not have a rich at idle problem. I am still trying to figure out how I am going to mount an air filter. I think A conical K-N performance filter will look cool but there may be hood clearance issues. I will try to figure this out once I get the car started. The TPS is a problem. The Bosch/Fiat throttle body uses a D-Shaft throttle position switch, I need a position sensor. I spent time at the local parts store going through the TPS sensors they had in stock. Looks like everything with a D-Shaft is a switch. The best thing I could find was a Ford sensor, it does not have a D-Shaft but I believe I will be able to use it with some glue or something.

I tried using JB weld to fill up the gaps. This worked but I think there is too much play. When I pulled it apart the JB weld had not stuck to the plastic either. I think I will try epoxy, if I use a syringe it will make the task of gluing it together much easier.

I tried to start the car yesterday but it did not work. I believe this car is cursed. The fuel pump I had so carefully installed was bad, luckily I have another one, this is from a Volvo wagon. After finding the pumps performance specs I think it should be OK. I\u2019m going to purchase a pressure gauge to make sure the fuel system is on the up and up. The TPS is still hacked on there, I tried super glue gel but that was no better than the JB weld and created more of a mess. So what happened when I turned over the engine? It back fired but would not catch I do not have my laptop so I can not see what is going on within Megasquirt. I will check through the wiring again.

I reviewed the wiring harness and went through testing all the leads. The Megasquirt hardware only provides two injector banks but there are four leads for injectors. I forgot to install jumpers between the 1-2 and 3-4 injector leads. Somehow this was causing two injectors to stick open. The lead for the MAT sensor has also come undone. I have re-soldered these leads. This should make a difference, we will find out tonight.. or maybe tomorrow.

The TPS has been destroyed by my attempts to make it work. Time to find another one. The local junk yard has decided that letting people in the yard is unsafe. GRRR. Time to find another one of those too. According to the tracking number my laptop should be back by tomorrow. (it was gone, broken screen) The second fuel pump I installed does not provide sufficient pressure. AUUGHH. It was old and my guess is its on its way out. Thankfully it was free so only a little time wasted.

I bought another fuel pump and TPS. The pump is off a 98 Volvo with only 35K That should be good! I used little shims to make the TPS work. There is some play but it is functional. I have read on the internet that Volvo did used a D-Shaft TPS SENSOR on a number of their cars. I have the part number and need to see if it exists in the United States. It also turns out one of the injectors was bad. I used a spare piece of wiring harness and a tin can to test all 9 Fiat injectors I have. One would not open, one would not close, and one had a cracked cap. The rest functioned properly and I chose the 4 with the most uniform spray pattern. After all this I turned the car over, it started! It is running too lean to keep going though. I need to raise up the after-start enrichment and probably the base pulse width to get more fuel into the engine. On a side note I am surprised by the injectors Fiat used in the car. According to the spec sheets they only run around 14 lbs/hr which is not much. I think once everything has settled down I will try to find higher flow rate injectors. I think ~24 lbs/hr would be better suited to this engine, or maybe just how I drive

The car now runs! I can feel a huge difference! Great throttle response! It feels like this system provides much more low end torque, and a much smoother power. Of course I am comparing it to a POS 20 year old carburetor. Another issue preventing the car from running on the 31st was the lack of tach signal. To fix this I used a second ignition module, per suggestion, Megasquirt group (yahoo.com). I had to splice into the lead coming from the hall sensor inside the distributor and split it to reach both modules. The new module only triggers Megasquirt and runs a small resistor for load. The second module is out of sight under the coil on the left. (See left picture) On the right is a picture of the running motor. I need to go out and get some tuning done now! Notice the motion blur on the cam wheels.

OK, it stopped running. While performing WOT tuning runs the engine started back firing and bucking. Shortly thereafter capacitor C-30 exploded. My passenger swore we were being shot at Thankfully the car still sort of ran and was driven home. The unit was not mounted very well, aka exposed wires, so something may have touched, see pic. New mantra, take your time, do it right.

After asking on the Megasquirt group (yahoo.com) and looking over the new version 2.0 schematics posted on the Megasquirt site (bgsoflex.com) I have made some modifications to my Megasquirt board. C-30 is an electrolytic capacitor which means it can explode if polarity is reversed. I placed a diode before C-30 to prevent any reverse current flow. I have also preformed the voltage flyback mod (bgsoflex.com). With such small injectors I was not having a problem with injector closing time but I have the unit out and it could help in the future. I need to get a less powerful soldering iron, I managed to burn out one of the contacts on the PC board so I had to run a jumper wire, see the pic. I will re-install the unit in a much more orderly fashion to prevent problems.

Much nicer install this time. I tried to put it near where the FI Fiats had the computer. Thankfully the car also runs, although with the flyback mod the duty cycle has to be at 80%. I have a wedding to attend so tuning will have to wait till next month.

Still trying to nail down the tuning of the system, It remains elusive. I am running into a problem with Megasquirt using the O2 sensor at idle. This is causing a lean/rich condition, and a rough idle. I rather have it run rich at idle to ensure it is smooth.

I have managed to break off the fuel pump relay line from the wiring harness. I have to bring the whole thing inside and re solder, I think I will just put a new 32 pin connector on there. The current one has allot of sloppy soldering!

After removing the unit and wiring harness I noticed the resistor used in the flyback mod was burnt. It still functions as a resistor but I am not sure how much longer it will last. Also the nail polish I used to lock the flyback transistor hold down nut has gone from red to black, must be getting hot! I have two carbon 1 watt resistors that I will use, if it burns these out then I have more serious issues. Here\u2019s a pic with the new mods in place. Notice the diode hacked in by the large blue capacitor to keep it from blowing up.

I have upgraded the software in Megasquirt to the newer revision code. This allows me to adjust the RPM at which the O2 sensor is used as well as a number of other options. The car runs and idles much smoother! I will now start logging to determine crossover points.

Anyone ever heard of Mega Squirt EFI?

Quote: xp190 Originally Posted by I was wondering if anyone has ever heard of this, I did a search on all forums but it came up empty.

any feedback is appreciated.

xp

My first encounter was in 2001 when I put one on a 1972 GTB4 Daytona coupe Ferrari. Heat soak had warped the 46 mm Webbers (a common fault of V-12 engines in Lambos and Ferraris) . I used the old carbs for the ease of installing EFI injectors, the linkage didn’t need modification, and the air cleaner would still function. I had to add a Motronic speed sensor, crank position sensor, OXY sensor, cyl head temp sensor, and air intake sensor using factory Porsche parts. It took two weeks to dial it in with a 5 gas analyzer, a PC laptop, and a chassis dyno. The first time you do a job is always the hardest, eh?

Four replacement carburetors cost $8,500. The complete parts bill for the Megasquirt was under $2,500. Labor was around $10,000. He still drives it and it has only required normal maintenance. We have converted seven carbureted V-12s so far. Last year we converted a 2008 Lamborghini Murcielago to the Megasquirt system and it was almost too easy. Only the Bosch injectors were replaced with higher flow units.

In 2004 they upgraded their unit to give a more precise control of the injector pulse width, timing control including a retard controlled by knock sensors, and CAN capabilities. This allows the use of much higher flow injectors and still has a livable idle.

I converted my 1978 930 in 2006 and discarded the crap CIS system and dinky camshafts for EFI with 935 MFI cams. Starting with 3.5 liter twin plug, single turbo that put out 340 HP, it turned into a fuel guzzling 460 HP.

Several years ago I built a SBC bored and stroked (to 408 CI) with a single Holley 850 double pumper. It put out 538 HP with 530 lbs of torque. With the Megasquirt conversion it put out 640 HP and 580 lbs of torque. It idles @1200 RPM and sounds like a B gasser but it’s very smooth to drive. 6-8 MPG

Within the next year I will install a similar SBC in my 1976 930. With a total curb weight of 2,550 pounds, it should be a fun car.

The new offering from Megasquirt is even more advanced and seems to aim at late model factory computer controlled cars.

I found a little trick that may be useful to those of us concerned with fuel economy. My 1986 911 3.2 liter twin plug gets 16-18 MPG city and 20-22 MPG highway. When I short the barometric cell, the engine thinks it is at high altitude and leans the mix. On the way to Vegas I get 28-30 MPG but with the A/C on, I must keep an eye on the engine heat (oil temp in a Porsche) and the pyrometer.

If you understand how the late model computer controlled cars work, you won’t have too much of a problem using the Megasquirt. I usually commit five different maps to memory and it takes about five minutes to choose and install one.

I have a California smog license and I know just how to use/abuse it . Megasquirt is nothing short of wonderful if you need it.My first encounter was in 2001 when I put one on a 1972 GTB4 Daytona coupe Ferrari. Heat soak had warped the 46 mm Webbers (a common fault of V-12 engines in Lambos and Ferraris) . I used the old carbs for the ease of installing EFI injectors, the linkage didn’t need modification, and the air cleaner would still function. I had to add a Motronic speed sensor, crank position sensor, OXY sensor, cyl head temp sensor, and air intake sensor using factory Porsche parts. It took two weeks to dial it in with a 5 gas analyzer, a PC laptop, and a chassis dyno. The first time you do a job is always the hardest, eh?Four replacement carburetors cost $8,500. The complete parts bill for the Megasquirt was under $2,500. Labor was around $10,000. He still drives it and it has only required normal maintenance. We have converted seven carbureted V-12s so far. Last year we converted a 2008 Lamborghini Murcielago to the Megasquirt system and it was almost too easy. Only the Bosch injectors were replaced with higher flow units.In 2004 they upgraded their unit to give a more precise control of the injector pulse width, timing control including a retard controlled by knock sensors, and CAN capabilities. This allows the use of much higher flow injectors and still has a livable idle.I converted my 1978 930 in 2006 and discarded the crap CIS system and dinky camshafts for EFI with 935 MFI cams. Starting with 3.5 liter twin plug, single turbo that put out 340 HP, it turned into a fuel guzzling 460 HP.Several years ago I built a SBC bored and stroked (to 408 CI) with a single Holley 850 double pumper. It put out 538 HP with 530 lbs of torque. With the Megasquirt conversion it put out 640 HP and 580 lbs of torque. It idles @1200 RPM and sounds like a B gasser but it’s very smooth to drive. 6-8 MPGWithin the next year I will install a similar SBC in my 1976 930. With a total curb weight of 2,550 pounds, it should be a fun car.The new offering from Megasquirt is even more advanced and seems to aim at late model factory computer controlled cars.I found a little trick that may be useful to those of us concerned with fuel economy. My 1986 911 3.2 liter twin plug gets 16-18 MPG city and 20-22 MPG highway. When I short the barometric cell, the engine thinks it is at high altitude and leans the mix. On the way to Vegas I get 28-30 MPG but with the A/C on, I must keep an eye on the engine heat (oil temp in a Porsche) and the pyrometer.If you understand how the late model computer controlled cars work, you won’t have too much of a problem using the Megasquirt. I usually commit five different maps to memory and it takes about five minutes to choose and install one.I have a California smog license and I know just how to use/abuse it . __________________

You can get farther with a smile and a gun than you can with just a smile.

1984 300D

1985 300CD

1980 300SD

1993 SL500

Anyone ever hear of the megasquirt DIY DFI?

I’ve built two and used one. They’re great little devices. As tuneable as you want them to be, they can equal a $3000 Motec if you’re good enough.

The basic kit is simple enough to build, there are very detailed manuals out there and the support on the Yahoo forums is excellent as long as you don’t post questions like “I soldered my thingys to the green board thingy and it doesn’t work”.

Once you have the unit built and functioning correctly, its almost spooky how easy it is to get things started. The engine I paired the MS to was a Suzuki GSX-R for the FSAE event last year. We had to build a custom manifold (the gixxer has individual TBs, no no by the rules), which was probably the most difficult part of the project. Anyway, you answer a couple of generic questions like “4 cylinder” and “600cc” and “4 injectors, sequential”. Then just save your settings and hit the start button. Our engine fired on the 3rd crank and settled into an idle of 5000 rpm (our intake manifold had a few leaks).

There is a program called “Megatune” you use to datalog and then automatically adjust your VE table. Basically, the more you drive, the better the engine runs.

I’m itching to put a Northstar into a 944 (or better yet a worn out 951) and that project would be well suited for an ultramegasquirt. I guess I should get started!

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사람들이 주제에 대해 자주 검색하는 키워드 Tuning the Megasquirt (Pt. 1) – Intro

  • automotive
  • diy
  • miata
  • megasquirt
  • ms3x
  • tuner studio
  • idle
  • tuning
  • cranking
  • IAC valve
  • idle air control
  • how to

Tuning #the #Megasquirt #(Pt. #1) #- #Intro


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